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China Elevator Stories
The Eight Grand Ministries in Changchun, Jilin Province (China Travel)
Changchun’s Eight Grand Ministries served as the government institutions of Manchukuo.
18/09/2025
Ruth Silbermayr
Author
Changchun (长春), the capital of Jilin Province, means “long spring” in English. It was the capital of Manchukuo (满洲国), the Japanese-occupied area of Northeast China, from 1932–1945. During this period, Changchun was known as “Xinjing” (also spelled Hsinking, literally “new capital”).
The first thing I noticed while sightseeing in Changchun was how strikingly clean the city was. The Chinese cities I had traveled to in the past were often chaotic and messy, and that is how many people still remember China—as more disorderly and less clean than much of Europe. That was true once, but in recent years great strides have been made to clean both the cities and the air. When I moved to Tai’an in the spring of 2025, I found myself in a city of clean streets and fresh skies. I never needed to buy an air filter, since the air was good almost every day, with only rare exceptions.
In Changchun, too, the air has been wonderfully clear. I am still waiting to see how winter will be, but I remember the past, when I struggled to breathe while teaching German classes in a high-rise. There were no air filters in the classrooms, and I often gasped for air. The skies outside were gray, and though a mask offered slight relief, I still breathed polluted air nearly every day I went to teach.
In Tai’an, the secret to clean streets lay in neighborhood cleaning committees. Retired residents were organized to sweep and care for their surroundings. I thought this was an excellent idea—one that should be encouraged in European cities as well. Many European cities have seen not only more litter, but also fewer street cleaners—or, if their numbers have not declined, they are overwhelmed by the sheer amount of trash thrown away so carelessly. I grew up being taught to throw rubbish into bins, but in Vienna, where I lived before moving to Tai’an, trash often lined the streets. It was neither beautiful nor comfortable to live among it; sidewalks, grass, and otherwise pleasant surroundings were marred by carelessness.
Keeping a large city like Changchun clean is certainly a monumental task, but the city has managed it with success. A clean city is always more beautiful, yet Changchun has its own special charm as well—especially if you enjoy colonial architecture. Although most buildings here are new, and some older districts have been demolished—such as a Japanese-built neighborhood near the railway station, torn down around 2014—the city still entices visitors with its imperial character.
Changchun was once the capital of Manchukuo, when the Japanese occupied Manchuria (now Northeast China) in the 20th century. Japan ruled this region from 1932 to 1945, installing Puyi, China’s last emperor, as their puppet. Forced to leave the Forbidden City in 1924, twelve years after the fall of the Qing dynasty, he lived in Tianjin for several years before moving into his palace in Changchun.
A few buildings from this period remain, and these are the ones I find most fascinating. They are remarkable examples of architecture, both in appearance and in quality. Built to endure for centuries with solid materials, they stand in contrast to the shorter-lived construction often seen in modern China. Though the Japanese occupation lasted only thirteen years, these buildings have endured.
Along Xinmin Avenue stand the Eight Grand Ministries (伪满八大部), built between 1934 and 1939, most of them designed by Japanese architects. Their architecture is unlike anything else in China—European or American in structure, yet crowned with Asian-style rooftops. The roofs, usually green or brown, differ from traditional Chinese forms, and many buildings have wide driveways where high officials once arrived by car.
The Eight Grand Ministries once housed the Ministry of Public Safety, the Ministry of Justice, the Ministry of Economy, the Ministry of Communications, the Ministry of Agriculture, the Ministry of Culture and Education, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and the Ministry of Civil Affairs. Today, most of these buildings have been given new life: two are now hospitals, and one has become a university. Near Cultural Square (文化广场), you can find what I consider the most beautiful hospital in China, making the square a perfect starting point for visiting the Eight Grand Ministries.
From Cultural Square, you can first walk toward Jilin University’s Chaoyang Campus (under renovation at the time of writing), and then across the square toward Xinmin Avenue, where other Manchukuo-era buildings line the street along with Chaoyang Park. A leisurely two-hour stroll will give you enough time to see both the park and the Eight Grand Ministries, though you might linger longer if you wish to rest in the park or stop at a café or restaurant. You can take a cab to Cultural Square, or simply ride the metro (Line 2).
Near Cultural Square, the First Hospital of Jilin University is located at No. 71 Xinmin Ave (新民大街71号). It is a general hospital, which also features a department of Traditional Chinese Medicine. The building was turned into a hospital in 1949, on the former site of the Public Safety Ministry.
It is a durable structure and has preserved the charm of former times, both outside and inside.
The building features brown brick walls and is adorned with ornaments on the rooftop and sections of the walls.
It is a public hospital, and its large halls can be visited.
The former site of the State Council of Manchukuo is located on the opposite side of the street, also within short walking distance of Cultural Square, at No. 126 Xinmin Ave (新民大街126号).
Another hospital, also within walking distance of the First Hospital of Jilin University, is the First Bethune Hospital of Jilin University, located at No. 1 Xinmin Ave (新民大街1号). It was ranked #15 nationwide in the “China Hospital Ranking” in 2019, making it one of the best hospitals in China. During the Japanese occupation, it housed the Ministry of Economic Affairs.
If you continue south along Xinmin Avenue, you’ll reach Chaoyang Park. Covering 570,000 square meters, it features a central lake and offers a pleasant stroll both in the colder months—when it is still warm enough to catch a little sun before winter becomes too harsh to stay outdoors for long—and in the warmer months, when the park is especially lively.
The Imperial Palace of Changchun is another highlight, particularly for those who love history, and it can easily be combined with a visit to Xinmin Avenue and Cultural Square (I will introduce it in another post).
Have you ever visited Changchun?